• This blade is made from high-carbon, stainless steel. This means that your knife will be highly-resistant to rust. However, with neglect and extended exposure to water and/or corrosives, stainless steel can certainly deteriorate all the same. Easy. Care includes hand-washing and drying, and proper sharpening when needed.
• Wooden handles have been treated with several coats of oil for protection. Depending on the species of wood, this may last a lifetime. Certain woods can dry out with excessive use and exposure to water and detergents. (Always wash your knife by hand, never in a dishwasher) Additional application of oil is a great way to restore life and lustre and all that good stuff. I use Tung oil primarily, but any quality wood treatment will work. I recommend avoiding shellac or anything that will leave a plastic-like layer on top of the wood. If your handle is not wooden (antler, bone, micarta, etc..) disregard all of that and enjoy!
• If your knife came with a leather sheath, it has been treated with an absorbable wax both inside and out, to keep the good moisture in and the bad moisture away. Likewise, with heavy abuse leather can wear. Generally sheaths are repairable either by myself, yourself, or anyone with the necessary supplies and gumption.
• Sharpen your knife with any typical system (whet stone, diamonds, ceramics, handheld draw-through, whatever) just be consistent with what you use so you're not always trying to reset the angle on the micro bevel.
• This blade is made from high-carbon, non-stainless steel. The good news is, it will take and hold an excellent edge, and will be easy tore-sharpen by any common means. The other news is, it will rust if left uncared-for. Preventing this is easy. Not unlike a cast iron pan, simply hand-wash and dry the blade, and if it will be stored for more than a few days a light coat of oil is recommended. I use cooking oil to keep things food-safe, but that's all up to you. Over time the steel will develop a patina which is just a natural darkening. This will be unique to each blade, and can carry some form of rust inhibition. Forcing a patina is possible.
• Wooden handles have been treated with several coats of oil for protection. Depending on the species of wood, this may last a lifetime. Certain woods can dry out with excessive use and exposure to water and detergents. (Always wash your knife by hand, never in a dishwasher) Additional application of oil is a great way to restore life and lustre and all that good stuff. I use Tung oil primarily, but any quality wood treatment will work. I recommend avoiding shellac or anything that will leave a plastic-like layer on top of the wood.
If your handle is not wooden (antler, bone, micarta, etc..) disregard all of that and enjoy!
• If your knife came with a leather sheath, it has been treated with an absorbable wax both inside and out, to keep the good moisture in and the bad moisture away. Likewise, with heavy abuse leather can wear. Generally sheaths are repairable either by myself, yourself, or anyone with the necessary supplies and gumption.
• Sharpen your knife with any typical system (whet stone, diamonds, ceramics, handheld draw-through, whatever) just be consistent with what you use so you're not always trying to reset the angle on the micro bevel.
That's it! With simple care and love this knife should provide you with years of happy knifery. Contact me via email with any questions or comments, and thank you for your support!